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Old European Cut Diamonds

If you are someone who inherited a round brilliant diamond bague diamant vente ebay cut between cleor bague argent 1860 and 1920, then tried to sell it in the 20th century, you were likely vente bague argent told the stone was an European cut. You were also bague diamant occasion lyon likely told that it needed to be re cut to modern proportions. Then you were offered a heavily discounted price that factored in whittling it down to bring it up to current standards.

That what happened to bague diamant platine ancienne me when I tried to help my newly divorced sister sell her heirloom diamond ring around 1970, in the heyday of prejudice toward old style cutting.

Actually, I should say happened. Although it was two years before I became a jewelry journalist, some instinct told me to distrust every one of the five jewelers I showed the stone to who dismissed it as, to quote one of them, dinosaur. Finally, a sixth jeweler on Philadelphia famous Jeweler Row looked at the stone and said it was a magnificent specimen of cutting. As such, he said, it was worth nearly as much as he would pay for a contemporary crafted stone. Accordingly, he offered to pay a far larger sum than any other offer we bague diamant chocolat had received only after begging my sister to keep it for her children. don see diamonds like this anymore, the jeweler lamented, I think it a shame. QUEST FOR FIRE

It wasn until 2000, when I began a two year stint working for a cutter of and arrows diamonds, that I realized what the jeweler was talking about. It was then that I learned that “Old European Cuts” were nothing of the kind. Extensive historical research conducted by gemologist Michael Cowing and GIA Al Gilbertson showed that round diamonds with small tables, high crowns, and large reflections from broad pavilion main facets were really not old or European at all. They were, in fact, American, first fashioned around 1860 by Boston cutter Henry Morse whose shop foreman, Charles Field, had invented and patented the first girdling machine. This technology enabled agatha bague argent Morse, whom many consider the true father of the cut, to fashion perfectly circular diamonds for the first time in history. anything, Cowing quips, cut should have been called the new American round brilliant. Why wasn it I asked.

Blame Marcel Tolkowsky. Tolkowsky, as you may know, bague argent homme gravure was the inventor of what has evolved to be known as both the ideal cut and the “Tolkowsky ideal cut”. He was the first well known exponent of cutting diamonds for beauty instead of weight. In his famous treatise on ideal (actually, he called it, more modestly, diamond cutting, self published in 1919, the Belgian cutter cited the claims of American journalists that Morse had already created a similar cut. Over the years, the rounded brilliant shape bague diamant rose coeur with ideal angles first cut by Morse was adopted by cutters in Antwerp and Amsterdam. As this design became standard in Europe, it became known as a kind of vintage round brilliant, or, as gemologists were taught for years, the European Cut. thinks this phrase is as dismissive as it is inaccurate. decades, ideal cut zealots wanted the jewelry world, and the public it serves, to think of the Morse round brilliant as a kind of outmoded precursor to the modern ideal cut, Cowing explains. it may have been transitional, it was a cut with distinct virtues that most modern round brilliants lack.

And here is where I beg any reader in possession of an Old European Cut diamond to look at it with new eyes. You will not be alone. Suddenly, after years of bague diamant personnalisable neglect and ridicule, Old European Cuts are staging a comeback as high flair vintage diamonds and objects of true beauty in their own right. As a result, the once wide price differences between old and modern brilliant cuts are shrinking rapidly. “It is no longer ‘mandatory’ to recut them of course, they poorly crafted, Cowing notes. European Cuts are now enjoying a revival in popularity as ‘Vintage Ideals’.”

Newton was far from alone in his reverence for diamond fire. I like to imagine him walking into a London jewelry store two centuries later and being shown an Old European Cut. He would have seen stones that breathed fire as much as they burst with brilliance. In pre electric, gas lit stores, flickering illumination was conducive to producing broad flashes of dispersion. So diamonds weren only known for their reflective powers, as they are today, but also their spectral dispersion powers. When jewelry store customers examined diamonds for purchase, their attention was called to both the bague diamant 5000€ diamond’s brilliance (reflected white light) and its fire (rainbow colors of spectral dispersion). Although diamond advertisements bague diamant marguerite ancienne still extol diamonds for their fire, the truth is that only a handful of diamonds possess this wonderful trait to the degree common a century ago.

Unsurprisingly, many who see fire for the first time won tolerate its absence in any other diamond. bague diamant black friday diamond with little or no fire is half a diamond, says Martha Hoefer, whose husband, Tampa appraiser Bill Hoefer bought her a 3 carat European Cut diamond a decade ago as an anniversary present. Martha says she felt like Prometheus stealing fire from the gods when she first looked at it. was on an airplane and the light coming into the cabin and hitting the diamond made giant rainbow reflections on the walls and ceiling, she remembers. put on a light show for my fellow passengers. One of them told me, diamond doesn do that

Few modern cut diamonds “do that” put on fireworks displays. One of the reasons I have long been a tireless proponent of hearts and arrows diamonds is bague argent originale femme that they bague diamant entouré de saphir are bague argent sans pierre cut to such exacting proportions and precision that they flash with fire as much as they burn with brilliance. I remember sitting with Richard von Sternberg, EightStar president, in a trellised wine garden, with coruscating sunlight shining through the slats, and seeing the 1 carat K colored EightStar diamond he wore on his finger erupt with colors like a 4th of July sky. It was one of the most magical moments of my 40 year career in the jewelry industry.

Martha Hoefer bague diamant floral experienced the same ecstasy with her 3 carat Old European Cut. What more, bague diamant dalumi the high brilliance of her stone masked the yellow tinge responsible for its GIA color grade of K. put my Old European bague diamant or noir Cut K color next to a typical modern cut K color and my stone looks whiter, she exclaims. This is no hollow boast. I did the same K color comparison of Richard hearts and arrows stone with conventionally cut ones numerous times and realized ideal cuts are much kinder to cape stones than typical diamonds.

But why do so many vintage diamonds catch fire Cowing says it’s their ample crowns bague diamant responsable and broad pavilion main facets. As ignition ready stones, they exploded like tinder when struck by “fire friendly” light. What more, diamonds didn have to be round to be set ablaze by light. If cut symmetrically with similar broad main facets, cushions and squares are just as prone to catch fire. Indeed, this is why many cutters are experimenting with custom cushion and rectangular cuts that outshine conventional diamonds in both brilliance and fire.

While on the bague diamant ronde subject of fiery cushion cuts, it would be good to deal with another kind of vintage style, the Mine Cut, that is often confused with the European Cut. The term Mine is a broad one that refers to cushion shaped brilliants that were the precursor of the round brilliant. Before the advent of modern girdling machines, the brilliant cut was cushion shaped closer to its natural square crystal outline. If the jewelry trade wants to recognize and abide by the corrected history of diamond cutting which establishes the round European Cut as the round brilliant cut of the late 19th century, it would be equally correct to revise the meaning of bague diamant paul pogba the cushion shaped Mine to refer to a brilliant cut. In other words, it would be correct to call Mine Cuts what they really are: cushion shaped European Cuts as cut in Europe prior to the round brilliant. Such revision of terminology and thinking could mark the beginning of a revival of retro and le bon coin bague diamant vintage cuts as a grateful buying public warms to what bague diamant forme princesse it’s been missing in diamond beauty for far too long…


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